About one month ago a video of a Black woman sporting a classic 90s french roll hairstyle went viral on X. The video in question caused quite a stir, not because the hair-do wasn’t cute, because trust me it definitely was fire, but the video caused a stir for two main reasons 1) many shared their excitement for 90s hairstyles making a comeback and 2) the video has caused many to point out how these new age Instagram stylists aka the “grass wall stylists” don’t know how to do hair in comparison to the old school beauticians.
Now, I cannot confirm whether or not this observation is indeed true, but what I can tell you is that every Black and Brown woman has had a very unpleasant or negative experience with hairstylists they have found on Instagram. There have been countless of Black women, who to date, are constantly sharing their frustrations online about the strict policies, rude customer service and not to mention the exorbitant prices that are offered by many Instagram and TikTok hairstylists.
The hair and beauty industry hasn't always been this way. Growing up, accompanying my mother to the hair salon, was a cultural experience. This was a sanctuary where womxn from all walks of life fostered a sense of community and sisterhood. While hair salons during this time were intentional about building everlasting relationships, beauticians of this time were also deliberate about providing quality services and experiences for customers. As time would have it, the beauty and hair salon industry in particular would gradually change, and so social media apps like Instagram would become a dominating factor in the way hair salons were ran.
Despite this, it wasn't until the Covid-19 pandemic hit when we saw an influx of newer and older stylists turning to Instagram and TikTok as means to market and advertise their skills, businesses and services. The Covid-19 pandemic birthed a whole lot of amateur stylists who were unlicensed and often chose to do hair as a side hustle. There’s obviously nothing wrong with having a side hustle, in fact we love seeing girl bosses turn passion into a livelihood, but the reality is that most hair stylists we see on social media today are not qualified or experienced enough to effectively run a business with positive customer service practices. Not to mention these are the same individuals who are seemingly prioritising their social media marketing and presence over building client-focused businesses. And let's be honest some just don't know how to do hair.
The disconnect and frustration in all of this is that while we are aware how times have changed, specifically the importance of social media and marketing for a business, but it becomes extremely disheartening knowing that you're treated with no respect or kindness especially when you're not only paying for a particular service but also adhering to the rigid rules put in place by stylists. And not to put "old school hairstylists" on a pedestal, but there is obviously a very stark difference between how old school hairstylists and beauticians worked and carried out services versus how services are carried out by the Instagram and TikTok stylists we see today. Let's take the “come washed” rule, hairstylists often expect customers to show up with their hair already washed and ready to be styled. Now I don't know about you but when I've made my hair appointment, the one thing I look forward to is getting my hair washed. And even back then, old school hair salons had job descriptions dedicated to being a "shampoo girl" who would wash a customer's hair and sometimes have them in roller sets before getting their hair styled.
This article is not meant to bash all Instagram hairstylist, instead it is just meant to point out how some stylists not only take advantage of clients by either refusing to return deposits, cancelling appointments at the last minute, rude customer service and not wanting to provide hair services, all while charging an arm and a leg. Similarly, it is also important for clients to consider factors like the time, money, energy and overall experience when paying for a hair styling service.
I don't know if we would ever get to a point in time where we don't have to worry about the rigid rules and deep deposits offered by by Instagram stylists, nor do I know when the comparisons between Instagram stylists and old school stylist will stop, but what I do know is that choosing hairstylists is trial and error. When it comes to finding a hairstylist, you need to be intentional about doing your research. The same way you'd read restaurant reviews or product reviews is the same level of energy you should be putting into
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