In an era where information is often readily available, old systems that gate-kept beauty secrets can no longer exist without scrutiny for its elitist approach, and rightfully so. Physical methods of engaging in the beauty world have no shortage of issues, ranging from a lack of accessibility to a general consensus that most popular—and arguably most profitable sectors of the beauty industry—aren't open to everyone. These sectors used to be heavily itemised through a brand's leverage, which may still be in some cases, but what leads the charge of opportunities in the beauty world—and most modes of creativity—is the trendification of it all.
Trend is a word you're most likely familiar with when it comes to pop culture, and it has the most impact when it comes to beauty brands deciding which one to emulate and for how long. But in a digital world, trends can be less of a default setting and more of a tool for personalisation.
The necessity for customisation has pushed a lot of the younger—and millennial—generations into the world of digital change. To understand ourselves in and out of this new world order, we asked founder of Hervisions, Zaiba Jabbar what she thought about beauty’s pivot into digital, and what it’s doing to influence us now.
How do you equate beauty to ugliness? In both a digital and physical sense?
ZAIBA JABBAR: Beauty and ugliness are inherently subjective, shaped by personal perspectives and societal norms. In both digital and physical spaces, beauty is liminal and viewed through various facets—whether in aesthetics, personality, or character. What one person deems beautiful, another might find unattractive. In the digital sphere, this perception is further influenced by the use of filters, editing tools, and virtual avatars, allowing for a more fluid and customisable definition of beauty. This malleability in the digital world challenges traditional notions and embraces a broader spectrum of what can be considered beautiful.
Where do you see the future of digital beauty in 10 years?
ZJ: The future of digital beauty holds endless possibilities. We can anticipate advancements in virtual makeup technology and the development of hyper-realistic digital avatars tailored to individual preferences. Augmented reality (AR) and artificial intelligence (AI) will likely become integral to beauty apps and platforms, offering personalised beauty experiences that empower users to express themselves in innovative ways. These technologies will not only enhance user interaction but also create new paradigms for beauty and self-expression in the digital age. Cultural memory due to AI as digital individuals will be dismantled, however It's great to see companies like Prada embrace virtual make-up with Ines Alpha being the Global Creative e-make up artist of this new era for them as a brand.
Do you believe that beauty is accessible for everyone, specifically in the digital world?
ZJ: The digital world has undoubtedly democratised beauty, providing a platform for diverse representation and inclusivity. Social media and digital content creation have allowed individuals from all backgrounds to showcase their unique beauty and talents to a global audience. However, accessibility to beauty standards and resources may still be limited for some due to factors such as socio-economic status and representation bias in media. While digital platforms have made strides in promoting inclusivity, there is still work to be done to ensure that beauty is truly accessible to everyone.
What do you think the biggest change has been in the migration from physical to digital beauty?
ZJ: The most profound change in the transition from physical to digital beauty is the shift towards individual empowerment and self-expression. In the digital universe, users have unprecedented control over their appearance, allowing them to experiment with different styles, trends, and identities without the constraints of physical limitations. Additionally, digital communities and platforms have cultivated a more inclusive and supportive environment where individuals can connect and celebrate their unique beauty journeys.
How do you think digital can transform personal taste?
ZJ: Digital platforms and algorithms have a significant impact on personal taste by curating content and recommendations based on individual preferences and behaviours. This technology also influences purchasing decisions through targeted advertisements, personalised style guides, and virtual styling sessions. By exposing users to new trends, brands, and experiences tailored to their interests, digital technology enhances and refines personal taste, making it more dynamic and diverse. At the same time, digital beauty has reflected a broader cultural shift towards inclusivity, diversity, and accessibility, challenging and reshaping traditional beauty paradigms. This was something I explored in FACE UP, the first augmented reality workshop and exhibition head at the Tate as part of the lives of Net Art Programme.
Do you believe that beauty has more permanence in the digital world?
ZJ: In some respects, beauty in the digital world can be seen as more permanent due to the ability to capture and preserve digital content indefinitely. It reminds me of a commission for a filter work for the TATE called Uncaptured, a collaboration between artists Lajune Mcmilliam and Aaron Jablanoski where the artists ask "What does it mean to be seen?" "How are you seen in the world?" and "How can we challenge being seen?" This correlation between identity, privacy and beauty raises a lot of questions! Due to promoting distortion rather than truth, the filter worked by promoting distortion rather than truth by hitting record you were rendered unrecognisable.
The filter is an exploration of the temporal realities that exist outside of what can be “captured”. Capture here is used in its dual meaning—to record or take a picture of something using a camera, as well as to take someone as a prisoner, or to take something into your possession, especially by force.
What happens to us when machines capture and surveil us in order to dominate and control us? How do we protect ourselves, from those who we wish to remain unrecognisable?
When the user opens the filter, they are met with a reality that morphs the user unrecognisable as soon as they hit the button to record themselves. What happens when we take away Instagram’s ability to capture us? What happens when we distort ourselves in order to protect ourselves from the algorithms that dehumanise and capitalise off our bodies? The longer you use the filter the more distorted you become.
Digital beauty is also highly malleable subject to manipulation through editing tools and filters.
The notion of permanence in digital beauty is nuanced, as it coexists with the transient nature of trends and the evolving standards of beauty in the digital landscape. This duality highlights the unique character of digital beauty, where permanence and fluidity intersect.
For everything from purchasing decisions to simply cultivating your own style via The Sims, the influence of digital beauty has been around for years. With the implementation of new technologies, there is ultimately going to be scepticism around the ethics of using digital means to somewhat 'replace' the physical without proper inclusivity, so the change goes both ways. The digital world of beauty has work to do, and in the same vein, so does the physical. What we do know is that the tools to love ourselves and each other are expanding, and that's as good a start as any.
